Ash Gate Hurdles, How to: Part 2

In this post I shall continue on from my last post, where I began to outline one method used to make ash gate hurdles. I've included quite a few photos in this post so I'll let them do most of the talking. 

Tenons are cut to size using an axe and a drawknife

I usually cut my tenons to about 5cm x 2cm though the size of your tenons will depend upon the size of your auger bit that you will be using to create the mortise joints in the uprights. 

Before boring out the mortise joints draw around the tenons onto the uprights so that you can ensure that the mortise matches the tenon. Mike Abbot suggests placing the rails 8" apart from centre to centre, this gap should be slightly less at the bottom to prevent lambs from escaping! 

Stop boring through the upright once the tip of the auger thread breaks through the other side. Then turn the piece of wood over and drill back through using this small hole as a guide. This will prevent the wood from tearing out as the auger bit exits the hole. 

I use chisels to clean up the mortise, though a twybil can be used. 

Offer up tenons to check the fit. You can always shave off more material for the tenons if the fit is a bit tight. 

Drive the rails into the uprights one side at a time.

I tend to assemble one side of the hurdle before tracing around the tenons on the other upright. I find that this helps to ensure that the gate hurdle is as straight as possible once it has been assembled. It doesn't really seem to matter if the mortise joints on the second upright are slightly off of vertical if the rail has a slight twist along its length. 

Tenons driven into both uprights

All that's left to do now is to prepare the central upright and the two supporting diagonals. These are made in much the same way as the previous pieces, they are split and peeled. Once these components have been prepared they are nailed onto the rails. Nails should also be driven through the uprights and into the tenon joints as this will help to ensure a tight fit. 

The nails should be 'clenched' as illustrated in the image below, this reduces the risk of the components being pulled apart.